I packed my bike, picked Pedro up and headed to the Alvão National Park. Located 50 miles East from the city of Oporto, its name means "Great White" in arcaic Portuguese, due to its propensity to become heavily covered in snow.
We started the ride near the Ermelo waterfall, 1700 feet high. The initial ascent was made along an asphalt road, leisurely following the slope of the mountain. The view was magnificent, all the peaks around us were shrouded in a mix of clouds and snow. A few rays of sun shone trough the clouds, adding a few gold accents to the landscape.
A bit ahead, a large heard of goats crossed the road, followed by some herding dogs. The dogs, probably bored from dealing with the goats, decided to chase us for a few moments, barking all the way. We just kept pedaling, absorbed in the beauty of the scenery.
The first snow appeared soon after.
Left and right, we found fields and houses covered with snow. White-out conditions prevailed during much of the journey uphill
Trees welcomed our passage, their branches curved by the overwhelming weight of the snow.
We had intentions to leave the road and follow a trail to the top of the mountain just before the village of Lamas-de-Olo. However, when we reached the trailhead we found out that such route was totally impassable. The snow was much more that we had anticipated, in some places deep enough to bury half a wheel. We had no option but to keep following the mountain road into the village, something also challenging as demonstrated by the following pic:
We entered the picturesque mountain village and slid down the slippery cobblestone road.
After the village we resumed the climb, periodically stopping to photograph the winter scenery.
We didn't have studded snow tires so traction was poor. Some sections had to be walked, the ice cracking underneath our feet with each step.
A mile out from the village lies the Cimeira dam. Snow started to fall intensely when we reached this area, making the road almost invisible. The dam spread to our right, providing a magnificent but quite distinct view from the typical summer landscape we are more familiar with.
We headed to a small pub located in a wooded area near the dam. Practically isolated, only the owners occupied it. Worried with a failing electricity supply they still found the time to prepare us something to eat and tell some tales of winters past, the crackling wood burning in the fireplace serving as background.
After leaving the bar we decided to head down and start the descent. Frozen brakes and slippery roads made for an interesting challenge. The bicycles weaved almost unpredictably as we fought to keep them pointed in a straight line. We were thrilled, it was just like learning how to ride a bike all over again.
We had a laugh after Pedro's close encounter with a snow bank.
The rest of the return was uneventful. We carefully coasted all the way down through the cold air, enjoying the magic scenery. Truly another memorable ride.
